Wermy, owner of the awesome Sudomod site, put together a fantastic build video. This is the best resource for putting together your PocketPi FE. The only slight changes are that the full kit comes with a back bracket and PCB of our own design (as mentioned by Wermy) and the placement of the emergency power cut off.

Wermy added his emergency cut off switch in the battery bay but we do in fact have an emergency shutdown button that is located in the game cartridge bay. Those differences are covered in our guide below.

If you have purchased a bare PCB and assembled your own Game Boy PocketPi FE we also have a set of 3D printable brackets available which include a 2 piece LCD bracket, button wells, cartridge magnet bracket and a contrast cover if you chose not to use the HDMI out. The zip file contains the stl of each part and them together for ease of printing.

Click here to download the zip file.

If you purchased a bare PCB you can also purchase the rear trigger button PCB sets here

The PocketPi FE build guide is split up into the following sections:

Download the PocketPI FE image Here

Once the download is complete unzip the file to get the .img, use Win 32 Disk Imager or ApplePi Baker if you are on a mac and write the .img file to the SD Card. There is also a guide on the PocketPI FE image Github page.

Download Win 32 Disk Imager Here

Download Applepi Baker Here

Once this is done pop the SD card to the side ready to the PCB check.

Using some Kapton Tape cover the bottom of the RaspberryPi Zero like the image.

Gameboy Zero PocketPi FE Guide

Once this is done place the Pi Zero W over the pins on the back of the PocketPi FE PCB like below

Gameboy Zero PocketPi FE Guide

Solder the pins and snip them off nice and low like below. I advise doing them one row at a time.

Gameboy Zero PocketPi FE Guide

Gameboy Zero PocketPi FE Guide

Place your PocketPi FE PCB on a clean surface, Insert the Micro SD card you wrote the PocketPi FE software image to earlier.

Plug in a Micro USB cable, the FE should boot like the picture below.

Gameboy Zero PocketPi FE Guide

PLEASE NOTE:

The first boot can take a while and you will see a white screen for a few minutes, this is normal so please be patient.

Once booted, slide the power switch off at the top the FE will shut down, Unplug the USB Cable and move on to the next step.

Its now time to drop in the LCD screen bracket and the other parts.

Place the 1st part of the  LCD screen placer in the top, and the thin strip in the bottom (these hold your LCD in place and nice and straight) & drop in your buttons and place the silicone pads over them and be sure to cut the top X Y button silicon pad like the pictures.

Align your LCD up with the top of the LCD placer you just installed and drop in the PCB from the top down (BE SURE TO HAVE TRIMMED THE LCD TABS ON THE SIDE), make sure its all lined up right with no obstructions then screw in the 3 silver screws into the holes as shown below. Gently trim the power switch until it fits and drop in the Power switch at the top.

If you are installing rear triggers in to your PocketPi FE pop the 3D printed ends on to the PCB and drop it into the case like the picture below. Be sure to get the 3D printed ends the same way as the picture, otherwise the case will not close correctly.

Gameboy Zero PocketPi FE Rear L&R Buttons kit

Using a thin tool mark the drill spot like the below image.

Gameboy Zero PocketPi FE Rear L&R Buttons kit

Once you have made your drill marks use a 9.5mm drill bit or a step tool to slowly make the holes 9.5mm.

Once you have done this, take the silicone pad and cut it in half with some scissors. Then take each half and slowly cut around the lower round part so it fits on the PCB.

Drop the buttons in, then the pads on top, and pop the PCB in, and you should get something like below.

Gameboy Zero PocketPi FE Rear L&R Buttons kit

Now solder the outside two pads on the rear PCB to the top holes on the L1 R1 pins on the FE PCB. For the GND I recommend bridging the inner two pads to one wire on the rear PCB and then run that to the closest trigger ground spot.

Thats it, thats your triggers installed!

Place the wireless charger unit onto the cart front coil down and cover with kapton tape. Next take note on the attached PCB which pads are the + and -. Place some Kapton tape over the component side of the PCB and fold it over.

Solder your wires (be sure to leave enough slack to remove the cart to access the SD slot)to the pads on the wireless cart and then place kapton tape over the whole PCB. Run your wires through the cart slot so your cart can slide in later, and be sure to go down the side of the pi not over the top as the wires could interfere with the rear buttons pcb.

Then solder your positive+ wire to the IN + pad on the blue TP Lipo charging chip and then your ground – wire to the IN – pad on the chip.

Then when its time to pop the cart in , simply slide the cart into the slot so its nice and snug and solder the red wire to the IN + pad on the blue charging chip and the black wire to the IN – pad.

PICS COMING SOON.

Cover the blue TP Lipo charger with kapton tape to prevent shorts. Then plug the cable into your pi and bend the cable into a N shape, and position on the pre cut groove on the rear shell part to ensure the back closes.

TIP: Be sure to make the HDMI cable nice and tightly routed so that the case closes nicely.

You may need to adjust the slot slightly with a craft knife if yours is a little too tight.

PICS TO FOLLOW

Simply solder the Red + wire from your battery to the LEFT centre pad and the Black – wire to the RIGHT inner pad, and then pop a small piece of Kapton Tape over it as per the pic below.

Time to close it all up!

There are two ways to do this. You can either lie the battery on the PCB and position the case over it from the bottom so as to hook the two screw posts from the battery compartment underneath the battery. This is the method I typically use.

The second is to slide the battery out of the bay like the picture and then close the case and slide it back in. This doesn’t always work as the batteries have slight variances in them.

Once the back part of the case is on, screw in the 6 longer screws in to the 6 holes, two at the top, 2 middle and 2 in the battery bay.

Make sure both your LCD and the glass lens has no dirt or dust on them, if dust is present, the easiest way to remove it is with some painters tape or masking tape. Simply dab the area with the tape.

Cut four strips of the double sides adhesive to fit around the outside of the lens area on the Pocket shell.

Carefully peel one side of the strip off and stick to the lip of the plastic around the lens area on the Pocket Shell. Do this for all four strips. Next, peel the other side of all four strips off and carefully lower the lens into place, making sure to align with your viewable LCD area.

Thats it!

You’re all done!

My screen is white or not working.

Be sure you that you have downloaded our official PocketPi FE image as that contains all the drivers and software for your FE to run correctly. You can download it at the start of this guide. Also be sure to check the soldering on your Raspberry Pi GPIO pins for bad solder joints too.

ON FIRST BOOT THE SCREEN WILL STAY WHITE A FEW MINUTES SO PLEASE BE PATIENT.

How do I add games?

You can add games via the WIFI on your RaspberryPi. Please visit https://retropie.org.uk/docs/Transferring-Roms/ on how to do this.